Friday 1 December 2017

Exotic Styling - Fashion Porn For Vintage Lovers


When I was clearing the book shelves at The Cottage I came across a book which must have belonged to my mum.

Wearing: 1960s St Michael nightie with quilted skirt; 1970s white leather go-go boots and a enamel horse pendant. Note the colour co-ordinated cat, Frank the Tank.


  Exotic Styling was published in 1974 but, despite us sharing the same house for eleven years I'd never laid eyes on it before. Packed full of kaftans, batik, frog fastenings, halterneck tops, soutache embroidery, crochet maxis, clothes trimmed with metallic braiding & fringing and even pom poms it was a revelation! The entire book is like a description of my wardrobe.


Exotic. The word stems from the Greek exo - outside. Anything out of its place is exotic. But in fashion, the exotic is more than something just out of its place. Its the imaginative use of colours, materials, accessories and design to suggest, rather than copy, the look and spirit of another place, another time.


It is the evocation of Japan in a kimono's gracious flow; of ancient Persia in a caftan's long, fluid lines; of West Africa in a dashiki's bold, square-shouldered cut. It is a sunburst of saffron on a turban, a broad stroke of embroidered silk for a sash, a net of filet crochet for an evening gown and a maelstrom of colour in tie-dyed cotton for a robe. 


Paradoxically, the construction of these garments does not require infinities of fuss. "To dress a woman is not to cover her with ornaments", said Paul Poiret, the designer whose revolutionary impact in the early part of the century laid the foundation for today's exotic fashion, "It is to underline the endowments of her body...to reveal nature in a significant contour, which accentuates grace. All the talent of an artist consists in a manner of revealment". 


 The book references many of the designers of the day, Ossie Clark, Halston, Jean Varon, Victor Costa, Bill Gibb ...all of whom were inspired by the exotic. 


Each beautifully photographed chapter delves into the origins of both the fabrics and the actual garments and gives detailed and gorgeously illustrated instructions so the reader can either make their own or adapt an existing pattern.

















This kimono has been made by adapting a conventional dressing gown pattern using the instructions in the book and made up in two fabrics so it is reversible. Two hostess gowns in one



This caftan is made from three silks and conjures up visions of mysteriously veiled Bedouin chambers.  According to the book this can be made using a commercial caftan pattern with alterations to the sleeves as demonstrated further in the chapter. 


The African dashiki, with a cut as crisp as a paper doll's tunic, provides an attractive showcase for two or even three subtly patterned but colour-related fabrics. 


Whenever human beings have found themselves with time on their hands, they have shown an inclination to fill the empty moments with embellishing - walls with paintings, stories with anecdotes, clothes with embroidery. Excavations of neolithic burial mounds in Europe have revealed scraps of wool or linen beautified by the primitive doodling of a crude bone needle. Friezes on early Egyptian palaces  depict men & women in what appear to be richly embellished robes and The Vedas, the venerable Hindu scriptures of India, allude to decorative needlework. 



The proud peacock and fragile sprays of spring blossom embroidered on the border of this red satin dress are just incredible. The book includes detailed diagrams and instructions do you can do it yourself. I bloody wish!


Apparently this design is characteristically Turkish and gives Middle Eastern excitement to this Western evening bag. I'm not really a bag person but I'd love this.


I've tried and failed at crochet most of my life but the more I look at this cropped top, made from individual paisley shapes, the more I'm tempted to give it another try. Ditto the maxi skirt, halter top and skull cap. Wow!







I've found a couple of vintage copies of Exotic Styling for sale HERE. The instructions are quite scary if you're a novice like me but the inspiration is wonderful.

See you soon!

76 comments:

  1. Exotic porn indeed! Fabulous from start to finish. I love the crocheted paisleys...I think your own personal chapter should be the one called 'Tassels, Fringes and Pom poms'!

    Stay warm
    xxx

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    1. I bet you could knock up a crocheted paisley top in no time with your skills! x

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  2. Wow, just wow. I could get lost in that kind of book.

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  3. you found our bible!
    this is the most wonderful book about fashion i´v seen in ages! (and i´v seen a lot!) love every pic of it and the descriptions too. can you tell me who did the fab illustrations?
    and if you ever need some "translation" for the instructions - ask me.
    i´m very impressed!
    xxxx

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    1. It is our bible. All those details we love, embroidery, pretty trims and clever fasteners. I might just take you up on your kind offer, I'm determined to make one of those kaftans next year! xxx

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  4. What a find! I have a collection of those books.

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    1. Hello, stranger! Lovely to hear from you! I'd love to see the other books in the series. x

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  5. I adore the illustrations in this book, especially the one of that divine fringed shawl. Personally I love the orange crocheted dress, but would never be able to reproduce it. Go on give crochet another bash, it can't be that hard...even I can do it! xx

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    1. You're creative and clever with your crochet and lovely cards. I'll have to look out a crochet hook - I'm sure I've got one stashed away somewhere and give it another go. xxx

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  6. What a wonderful find! How strange that you hadn't seen it before though. You really must have your fashion sense from your Mum. The illustrations are fabulous! That top made up from those Paisley shapes is just fantastic. Wow! xxx

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    1. Isn't that paisley top wonderful? I think I'll have to replicate it by chopping up blanket squares instead! x

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  7. What a treasure to find and a lovely unexpected reminder of your Mum. I can see this inspiring you creatively over the next few months. My fingers would be itching to start!
    Arilx

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    1. It's such a lovely book and amazing to think that you could possibly create one of those beautiful pieces. I'm a bit scared of how detailed the instructions are but I shall give something a bash! x

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  8. Oh wow, I love this!!! Do it, make the paisley!!! I love the front cover- it looks like Javanese batik kain! I had one almost identical!

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    1. I love batik, do you still have yours?
      I want that paisley top, it's the best thing ever! xxx

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  9. At the first glimpse of your blog on my phone, I couldn't wait to see the pictures on my computer. What a fabulous book! Did you know that it came from a set of 16? I'm sure, by far, that you have the best volume. Mahalo, for the pictures. You've made me very happy today with your share.

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    1. A set of 16?! Goodness me, I'd be in absolute heaven leafing through the entire series of those books, the illustrations and photos are divine, aren't they?
      I'm so glad you enjoyed the post! xxx

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  10. oh my gosh! I have that book. Well, I have the whole set (yes, there's lots more). The one for fur and leather is covered in green "snakeskin"! Each one also has some sort of craft at the end. Very cool.

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    1. I love the sound of the snakeskin bound volume! I'll have to see if I can find more in the series. x

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  11. This is a stunningly beautiful post, a real feast for the eyes.
    I love all the varying styles, the colours and that oh so fabulous Paisley pattern crochet.
    Thank you for sharing it xxx

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    1. It's such a gorgeous book, I can't image anyone remotely interested in clothes not loving it, even if they never make a single piece. xxx

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  12. What a wonderful book! Are you sure you hadn't read it before?! Seems like you've taken all the advice to heart! xx

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    1. Honestly I was absolutely amazed when I found it - I thought I knew of absolutely everything in the house! x

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  13. Wow, what a treasure of a book! I wonder what you'll be inspired to make. Xxx

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  14. The illustrations are beautiful. The embroidered peacocks don't look impossible, if you have some time to sit and sew.

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    1. There is a detailed plan of those peacocks to copy - I've never embroidered anything in my life, I'm a bit scared of it. It takes me an age to thread a needle!

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  15. Do you suppose Santa would overlook all those silly remarks I made about not wanting any green and red dressing gowns under the tree -- and believe I really, truly want that gorgeous reversible kimono?!

    What a wonderful find, Vix. Let's consider this book a blessing on your vocation and your wardrobe from the ancestors.

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    1. That reversible kimono is just brilliant, isn't it? I can't think of anywhere where you couldn't wear it!

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  16. OMG, that is SO fashion porn! I want that book - how freaking amazing! Those styles are still all very fresh. What a fabulous find!

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    1. Isn't it wonderful? Absolutely timeless styles! xxx

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  17. How extraordinary your mum loved the same as you.Was she brave like you or keep her wishes secret and dress conservatively? I tried so hard to crochet with even having an expert cousin teach me. Just couldn't get the hang of it. Good knitter and sewer but crochet ended up in tight knots. Gave up.

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    1. Mum was far more outrageous than me - she'd think nothing of shopping in satin pyjamas, piles of African brass jewellery and a fake leopard fur coat - people still talk about how she dressed!
      I've tried and failed so many times to crochet, i'm glad it's not just me who can't master it! xxx

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  18. That's what I liked about the 70's - The "Do Your Own Thing" attitude.
    Nowadays all that exoticism and beautiful blending of cultural motifs would be denigrated as the very unPC "cultural appropriation."
    xox

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    1. Me, too! Anything went in the 1970s, such a great era when it came to fashion freedom. I love how cultural motifs and foreign costumes were embraced and worn with joy. xxx

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  19. What a lovely reminder of your mum. I have this book too, I found it along with a couple of others from the series at a car boot. It really is full of some wonderful stuff, I've been tempted myself to make the paisley crochet too. You should give crochet another bash! I learnt through YouTube as I find it easier watching someone and I can replay the bits I don't get over and over. It's a very satisfying hobby, I'm halfway through a dress right now.

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    1. What a fab car boot find! I'd love to see the others in the series.
      I wondered if I could understand crochet better by watching a YouTube video, I'll have to get that crochet hook back out!
      I'm dying to see your dress! xxx

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  20. What a wonderful book! A pity we don't have more books with inspirational DIY messages like that.

    Colour coordinated Frank the Tank...love it!

    Happy thrifting ;)

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    1. I know. Some of those 1960s and 1970s craft books and magazines are wonderfully inspiring. the stuff these days always seems a bit too twee for me. xxx

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  21. Oh my word what a fabulous find. Now we know where you get your fabulous style from. Do you remember your Mum ever wearing anything that was inspired by the book? I love all the photos.. They had some fab books like that then. Lots more DIY than you get now. Most modern sewing books don't run to anything beyond jammie bottoms. I am also happy to interpret if you get stuck adapting a pattern but I have no clue about crochet or hand sewing. Frank the Tank is very aptly named. :) Xx

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    1. She'd certainly got lots of similar clothes. I'm not sure how much of them she made although she was a wonderful crocheter.
      You're so right, those modern craft books are all knitted cup cakes and twee nonsense.
      Thank you for your kind offer, I might be bothering you next year! xxx

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  22. Get thee behind me satan - bother, too late I pressed buy. Christmas pressie!!!!

    Novice - yeah!

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  23. Cool book! I'm getting it for myself for my birthday this year.
    Crocheting paisleys would be a good way to pass time while you're driving to festivals or vintage fairs.

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    1. You're so clever I bet you could make one of those paisley tops!
      That's a great idea to crochet when I'm on the road, might stop me falling asleep. xxx

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  24. woaaa, exotic styling!, yes, please!. I'm loving all those embroideries, kaftans and colorful fabrics, and I'm loving even more that there's a whole chapter dedicated to 'Provocative Look in Crochet' mwhaha, that's Fabulousness!
    I think I've been bitten for the crochet bug!. I've been crocheting some berets, but don't make anything bigger many moons ago. Now I feel more ambitious!
    And those patterns look really too much for me!, lovely to see them anyway!
    besos

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    1. The more time I investigate Instagram the more I'm getting into crochet, all the best people seem to do it! xxx

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  25. What a little treasure, I love the amazing illustrations. xx

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    1. Even if you never made any of the things in there it's just a joy to leaf through it. x

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  26. I found one online for $5. A true Vix worthy bargain. So inspired by the paisley crochet I bought It! Thanks for posting, it seems the world will be a more interesting place with all of us buying it and trying it Out! Xo Jazzy Jack

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    1. How exciting and what a great price! I knew my on-line friends would love this book as much as I do! Please share anything you make! xxx

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  27. What a fun find. Seems like somehow it was all already in your subconscious.

    Suzanne

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    1. I know, it's like a tour round my wardrobe! xxx

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  28. Whohoo! I can comment again here! Ha ha. Stupid technology BS.

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  29. When the student is ready the teacher appears! Maybe your mam thinks you are ready to attempt even more new things and that's why you found the book. It looks very interesting.

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    1. Very profound, Shelagh!! Maybe you're right although she tried - and failed - to teach me to crochet on many occasions. xxx

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  30. Mr Amazon is on his way with a copy of this divine book.
    I wish I’d known your Mum xxx

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    1. Hooray! I love that all my friends are finding this book, it's such a lovely thing!
      Mum would have loved you, she'd have dragged you round the chazzas until you were sick of them! xxxx

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  31. Oh my, I immediately bought this after reading your post, Vix! I was so excited that it actually turned out to be a how-to and not just another pretty picture book. Only $2.99. I might even learn how to knit, or was it crochet ($) for that paisley number. That book is all Vix through and through.

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    1. Yay! So glad you found a copy! I love that it's not only a gorgeous coffee table book but it's actually useful , too. Make the paisley top, it's so you! xxx

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  32. Oh wow, what an amazing book and so you as well. How fab! xx

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    1. It is! I need to find the others now! xxx

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  33. What LUSCIOUS eye-candy!! That book is definitely about your style - how cool that you found it in your Mom's stuff. It's great that they included instructions about how to add exotic elements to a piece of clothing. I could so see you wearing that black crocheted outfit. I think you need to try your hand at crocheting again.

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    1. I'd love that black crochet number, I could wear it to the next Status Quo gig - or maybe not! xxx

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  34. What a fabulous book, with so many classic lines that we still go back to today, there is really nothing in that book that dates it at all, showing style is timeless. I am really enjoying your 'finds'. Betty

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    1. Thanks, Betty! It is so timeless, isn't it? Just goes to show that beautifully made clothing never goes out of style. xxx

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  35. Amazing book, incredibly inspiring! If I had to only pick one style for the rest of my life, this would be it. I'm definitely buying this book for inspiration!

    You look wonderful in your attire, and I am positive you will be a talented crochet knitter!

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    1. You're so right, even if you never made anything there's so much gorgeous detail in the photographs and real second-hand shopping inspiration, too. xxx

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  36. I can't believe this was published in 1974, in terms of design it looks very up to date, I use similar fonts in my every day working life.
    It's a beautiful book, I know you'll treasure it!
    xx

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    1. It really does look contemporary - it just goes to show that great design never goes out of fashion. xxx

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  37. What an amazing find! It looks like it was written with you in mind. What a treasure!

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  38. That book is so perfectly you! I look forward to seeing what it inspires you to create.

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    1. There's so much good stuff in there I don't know where to start! x

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Thanks for reading and for leaving a message. Please don't be anonymous, I'd love it if you left a name (or a nom de plume).

Lots of love, Vix